Archive of ‘Skincare’ category

Using Hydroquinone 4% To Lighten Skin

Is Using Hydroquinone Safe or Dangerous?

Using Hydroquinone 4% or  HQ4 to gradually lighten skin had always been a hot topic – there are those who say it’s totally unsafe, and there are those who swear by their HQ. I think the best way to make a decision is to be informed. I’m going to lay out the facts about HQ and hopefully it will make you make an informed decision about whether or not to use Hydroquinone.

 

Sammy Sosa Before and After Skin Bleaching.

 

 

Hydroquinone Facts:

Fact 1: Hydroquinone 4% is SAFE to use and is Non-Cancerous

HQ 4% might cause redness or irritation, but only if you are allergic to it. There will always be someone who is allergic to HQ, just like  there will always be someone allergic to aspirin, or nut products or even the sweat that their own body produces (me). Taken from Dr. Susan Taylor in her book Brown Skin.

The application of Hydroquinone on skin is in standard product concentrations is NOT harmful to humans. The use of hydroquinone in murine (mice) led to an actual decrease in murine hepatocellular carcinomas (cancerous liver tumors) but an increase in hepatic adenomas (benign liver tumors), suggesting protective effects of hydroquinone. The report also states that murine renal (kidney) tumors caused by use of hydroquinone do not appear relevant to humans after decades of widespread use, and murine leukemia has not been reproducible and would not be expected from small topical doses in humans as well. Taken from Dr.Jacob Levitt M.D, 2006 Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology,

There are over 100 scientific articles confirming topical Hydroquinone is safe for humans and no independent studies have proven otherwise. Taken from Dr. David J. Goldberg, clinical professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai School of Medicine.

Fact 2: Most reported cases of so-called Hydroquinone horror stories are usually caused by human error.

The safest dose of hydroquinone is at 4% applied topically. Some users, in a desperate attempt to make themselves fairer, use dosages of up to 20% hydroquinone. This would of course cause a skin reaction.

There are people who would actually experience skin darkening when using HQ. This could be due sun exposure on areas exposed to HQ. If you are going to lighten your skin 4-5 shades lighter with HQ, you would need to protect your skin with at least an SPF50 at all times, and minimize sun exposure. This is a fact. If you don’t think you can avoid the sun and use sun protection religiously, don’t use HQ.

In some places, unscrupulous sellers would add mercury and steroids to HQ, without putting in on the label (if there is one). When victims suffer from a toxic reaction to these poisons, they would of course blame HQ. It is extremely important to get Hydroquinone from reputable sources only.

Anyway, I am neither an advocate or opponent of skin whitening. Some people like to tan, some people like to get lighter. It’s a personal choice. But whatever your preference is – safety should be your no.1 concern.

Heidi

Is SkinWhitening.org A Scam?

Who Really Owns SkinWhitening.org?

I know I’ve been posting a bit too much about skin whitening lately. Trust me, I’m not obsessed about skin whitening (anymore) as I’ve pretty much resolved my skin issues a few years back but I came across this particular website thanks to a reader who asked me about the product recommendations on said site.

So I went to the site and it looked legit enough on the surface. However, I have a few issues with the site that I hope someone from the site would care to comment on.

Issue 1: Their Free “Skin Lightening Report” is badly written and inaccurate.

This ebook was obviously ghostwritten by someone who does not speak English as a primary tongue and was poorly researched/edited. Clumsy sentence constructions abound and inaccurate/unsupported facts can be found liberally in this ebook. There are too many to list but one particular claim really got to me:

…anal bleaching is opted by many women to de-pigment the darken [sic] area around the anus, due to careless hygiene of women.

Really? Are you saying that the large majority of women who are plagued with pigmentation in the area surrounding their private areas are just dirty? Please. This poorly written book undermines the legitimacy of Skincare.org and the product reviews and recommendations that they give.

Issue 2: No Background Information on Site Owners.

"Melanie" and "Kelly" of Skinwhitening.orgClumsy sentences and inaccurate facts aside, I also find it really weird I can find no background information or short biographical information on “Melanie” and “Kelly” , the two cosmetic scientists who are the supposed owners of the site. Not even their last names are listed here. Which is really strange don’t you think?

Issue 3: Unsubstantiated Media Claims.

Furthermore, the site claims to have been featured on Esquire, USA Today, Yahoo! and InformationWeek etc, but I can find no such media clippings on the site or on the web to back up the claims. Don’t you think it’s weird for a website to claim to have been in the media yet deciding to omit  posting said media clippings on its website?

Anyway, I have written to Skincare.org asking them about the issues above. If they do respond, I’ll be sure to update this post – but until then, it’s still caveat emptor for you guys who are going to trust  Skincare.org product reviews/recommendations since I can’t really verify the history or background of the owners.

 

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Heidi

How To Lighten Skin Safely and Effectively

Reader Question: What Are Effective Ways To Whiten  Skin Using Methods Other Than Injections?

About a couple of weeks ago, I received an email from a reader asking me how to whiten her Fitzpatrick IV skin to Fitzpatrick II. To know more about the Fitzpatrick scale please click here.

I’m actually working on an ebook right now about skin lightening and hyperpigmentation, and I hope to get that out ASAP but until then here’s a brief guideline on how to lighten your skin safely and effectively:

Step 1: Always Wear Sunscreen

The No.1 cause of skin darkening is UV rays. So the FIRST thing you have got to do is invest in at least an SPF30 sunscreen. I use Neutrogena’s sunscreen in SPF30 on my body and SPF50 on my face everyday.  Do not skip sunblock ever. You need to stop melanin production in your skin to start lightening. Furthermore, if you lighten your skin using products and you don’t wear sunscreen, you are going to negate the effectiveness of your skin lightening cream. You must use sunscreen/sunblock that blocks both UVA and UVB rays.

Step 2: Exfoliate Your Skin

Stopping melanin production is one thing, but now you have to reverse the darkening that has happened so you need to exfoliate your skin. Skin darkening will happen to anyone who is a Fitzpatrick II onwards who have spent time in the sun without sunscreen (which is everyone who grew up where the sun shines) Here’s a big tip on how to exfoliate – stop using skin scrubs or that loofah. Manual exfoliation doesn’t really do anything other than scrub the top most layer of skin – and frankly it can be abrasive. Invest in chemical based exfoliators – i.e those that contain AHAs or BHAs. I’m a big fan of chemical exfoliators because they not only exfoliate to the deeper levels of the epidermis (where melanin is produced) effectively yet gently, but they also rebuild the collagen bundles in your skin resulting in firmer skin. My favourite all over body exfoliator is a product called Carotein Cream. This is by far, is the most effective (and affordable) exfoliating cream in the market. And it works. I have really dark South Indian friends who managed to lighten 4 shades using this cream alone.  Another method of exfoliation is using chemical peels. You can actually peel your skin at home using at-home peels. My favorite at home peel is a Lactic Acid peel which comes in concentrations of 30% to 80%.

Step 3: Suppressing melanin production

If you have been dilligently following Steps 1 & 2, chances are after about 6 weeks, you should notice a lightening of your skin of up to two shades lighter. It won’t happen over night because your skin takes about 4-6 weeks to  completely renew itself. However, if you really want to amp it up you can try skin lightening creams such as those that contain hydroquinone (no more than 4%) , kojic acid or arbutin. And some of you might ask- isn’t HQ dangerous? the short answer is No. HQ is dangerous in high concentrations. I don’t recommend anyone to use it at concentrations higher than 4% HQ. If you have started with Step 1 and Step 2, 4% HQ is more than sufficient for skin lightening.

Note: Skin lightening is actually a very lengthy and complicated topic and I’m sorry that my time management skills are so horrible right now I can’t finish the ebook on time. FYI, I was a Fitzpatrick IV and now I’m a Fitzpatrick II. To get effective (and affordable products for skin lightening is possible but you really need to do your research. After about a decade of trial and error, I’ve managed to find great products (which I will discuss in the ebook).

Hope this helps : )

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Heidi

What Is The Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale And How Is It Important to Asians

First of all, what exactly is the Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale?

According to the Wikipedia definition: The Fitzpatrick Scale (aka Fitzpatrick skin typing test or Fitzpatrick phototyping scale) is a numerical classification schema for the color of skin. It was developed by T.B FItzpatrick, a Harvard dermatologist, as a way to classify the response of different types of skin to UV light. It remains a recognized tool for dermatologic research into the color of skin.

 

FItzpatrick Skin Types

 

 

The FItzpatrick Scale divides your skin into 6 numbered categories from Type I to Type VI , with Type I being the lightest possible skin colour, and Type VI being the darkest. Asians normally would fall between Type III to Type V.

Click Here If You’d Like To Take The Fitzpatrick Skin Type Quiz

So how is this relevant to you?

Knowing where you are on the scale would help you determine what cosmetic  products and procedures are most suitable for your skin type. The Fitzpatrick scale is also used by your dermatologist or skincare expert to dertemine which cosmetic procedures or treatments would be most appropriate for you.

For example, those with with FItzpatrick Skin Type I to II would need to be careful when undergoing IPL hair-removal procedure because the IPL lightbeam might not remove hair effectively enough for these skin types. This is because IPL gets rid of hair by emitting energy which is absorbed by the hair shaft’s melanin cells. Once the hair shaft absorbs this energy it is rapidly destroyed. If your hair shaft does not have enough melanin, it might not be destroyed.

When considering cosmetic procedures like laser resurfacing and chemical peels, your FItzpatrick Skin Type comes into play again. The types of lasers and peels used on darker skin tones (FItzpatrick Skin Type III-VI) are very different from the types used on lighter skin. Why? Because darker skin types have a very high chance of developing hyperpigmentation from these procedures.

This is why a lot of dermatologists prefer to use nonablative lasers when dealing with Asian skin, as the laser rejuvenates your skin on the deeper level, bypassing your epidermis (the top layer of skin where melanin is formed) so there is a smaller chance of hyperpigmentation.

So the next time you are considering a chemical peel or laser procedure, enquire if the procedure is suitable for your skin type. If your doctor has no significant number of successful case studies that is similar to your skin type, look for other alternatives. LIkewise, if embarking on an at-home skincare regimen, check whether the products have been used effectively by others similar to you.

 

 

Heidi

Cosmetic Scientists Claim Dermatologists Have No Idea What Products Are Good For Your Skin.

I was browsing around for more brainier beauty blogs to follow and I came across TheBeautyBrains.com, a blog ran by a group of cosmetic scientists – you know, the brainy looking folks wearing white coats mixing chemical potions together in the lab trying to come up with a truly effective wrinkle-buster. Or at least, that’s the image I have in my mind when you say the words “cosmetic scientists”.

Anyway, according to them, the main objective of the blog is:

…to help you cut through the confusing, misleading and sometimes false information that the beauty companies bombard you with. We believe the more information you have, the better you’ll be able to find products that you like at a price you can afford. So, you can listen to the advertising. Or advice from a friend. Or what your stylist tells you. But if you want to really understand cosmetic products in an unbiased, scientific way, Ask The Beauty Brains. You’ll get answers from a team of scientists who have no sales pitch and nothing for you to buy.

I like it very much that they seem to be very thorough and scientific in their explanations, without sounding tedious and well… geeky. And if compared to The Cosmetics Cop, these guys (or gals) seem much more unmilitant and more logical in their criticism and support of whatever product/beauty brand they are spotlighting . Don’t get me wrong, I deeply respect Paula Begoun’s opinions and I’m always the first to get anything she publishes, but I tend to disagree with her love of so called  all-natural products. But that’s for another post.

Back to the cosmetic scientists: so I downloaded their  Beauty Report which is available on their homepage. The report is well-written piece packed with insider tips on how to be a much more savvy beauty consumer and not get fooled by fancy expert recommendations/packaging/ingredients. The only issue I had with the report was their claim that “Dermatologists don’t know what products are good for your skin, only cosmetic scientists truly would know.” . This is like saying ” Doctors don’t know what medicine to prescribe to a sick patient, only pharmacists know best.” .

Dr. Howard Murad, a renowned cosmetic dermatologist and founder of the Murad line of skincare products.

Hmm…am I witnessing a case of cosmetic scientist elitism here?

But apart from that one issue, I think the report was really educational, and a must-read if you want to be a more discerning beauty consumer (or at least stop buying products that don’t work) .

Have a great week ahead!

 

 

Heidi

Skincare Product Review: Dior Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Concentrated Serum

Under normal circumstances, I probably would not consider purchasing this product. But my mom (who is such a Dior Skincare fanatic) got her annual Dior Skincare Club points statement today and it seems she was entitled to some free/discounted skincare products. So when I went with her to the Dior beauty counter, she let me choose one skincare product for myself as a present : )

So I picked this one – Dior Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Serum.

What is it? According to Dior it’s a unique essence enriched with Alpha-Longoza Complex – touted to repair all signs of aging like wrinkles, slackening, lackluster skin and enlarged pores. The product also contains extract of yellow iris  to refine skin texture and tightens pores while the bi-skin complex and wheat proteins instantly smoothens and firms the skin. Overall, the product promises smoother, luminous, even-toned & younger-looking skin.

The texture is serum-like (kind of gooey) and it has a distinctive smell to it. The product is kind of sticky at first and it takes a while to absorb into my skin. ( Tip: Use a hairdryer on cool and blast onto your face – it will help speed up whole thing)

The verdict?

I’ve been using the product for two weeks now at night ( in place of my usual moisturizer) and I can safely say that it smoothens the very fine wrinkles I have under my eyes. It also makes my skin much less oily in the daytime and more smoother.

However, the product is very costly at RM390. I can’t vouch for the wrinkle erasing as I don’t have much wrinkles (yet). But my mom has been using the serum for over a year and a lot of people have commented on how she doesn’t look a day over 40. (She’s 54 years old this year). I’ve also googled for other reviews and found this review from this lovely lady called Vonvon with photos of her before and after using a similar product (she’s using Capture Totale One Essential Skin Boosting Super Serum) and it does show her face showing noticeable improvement after using the serum.

Well, I hope I can use up some more of my mother’s “points” when I run out of this product. Because anything over RM350++ is waaay too pricey for me to spend on just one bottle of serum ; )

If anyone has a more affordable alternative to this serum , do let me know : )

 

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Heidi